Thursday, May 15, 2014

Pavot Jacket


I finally made a jacket. I wanted to make a jacket to take with me to Europe, so I finally hunkered down and made the Pavot jacket by Deer and Doe. This just whets my appetite to make more. I do have 2 more Pavots planned, and 2 trenches as well! I didn't want to make the jacket, not because of the skill it took to make it, but the time.. A dress, I can make that in a day. A jacket? This took me 3 days, and I don't regret it one bit.


I was scared to tackle this jacket is because of all the alterations I wanted to make. What alterations you ask? Where do I even start? I didn't like the pockets because in the muslin I made, the pockets didn't sit well. I didn't want to get rid of the pockets completely because I realized how important they are in keeping your hands warm in the cold. I added front welt pockets instead of the side seam pockets. These pockets are big and deep, I could fit my wallet and cell phone into one pocket!


Isn't the fabric for the pockets pretty? I wanted a pop of color. Keep an eye out for this fabric on my blog. I promise you it will reappear! The main fabric I bought at Sew-LA. When I bought this fabric, I knew I wanted to make the Pavot jacket. That almost never happens to me, I usually buy a fabric because I like it. Sometimes I have a pattern in mind, but it's never set in stone. Initially, I wanted a navy collar and waist band, but I couldn't find the perfect navy to go with it and I wasn't sure how it would look.


I changed the collar. I made it wider. I traced the largest size for the collar. Since they were all the same width in the back, I added 3/4 inch to the back collar. There is a reason to my madness, I promise! Long story short, I wanted my collar to cover my neck if it's ever windy. Besides, I like how I feel like Sherlock when I have it up! I'm just missing his hat.


I lined this sucker! I had a problem of figuring out which tutorial to use, but ended up using Sewaholic's tutorial because it was easier. Since I wanted my jacket to be lined, I drafted a hem facing and cuff facing. I used bias tape around the facings just because I wanted to and I wanted a pop of color. I also hand sewn the lining to the jacket. I went there!


I cut the collar on a bias for added detail, no matter how small. I also cut the under collar 1/8 inch smaller than the upper collar. I took this from all the tutorials I've read about collars. I also interfaced the collar and the facings even though there isn't any mention of it. I didn't know what buttons to use, but I found one with criss cross lines that mimicked my fabric.


I did make some smaller changes. I made bound button holes rather than regular button holes. Man! I didn't realize how labor intensive bound button holes are and how much precision you need. Mine aren't perfect, and that's okay. Will I try it again? I'm just crazy enough where I'll do it again because it's cleaner. I made the sleeve cap smaller because I didn't like how puffy it was for my muslin. I prefer it this way much more.


I think I just covered all of the changes I've made! I like the jacket much better after all of these changes. I'm really glad I made this jacket because it kind of sparked a fire in me. I want to make things other than dresses. Ha! I want to make more time consuming projects and projects that require more precision.

When I make this jacket again, because there will be a next time, there are a few changes I'll make. I'll make the welt pockets about an inch smaller because they are wide. I'll make the pockets smaller too, because it's quite deep. The last thing I'll do make the skirt part of the jacket less flared. I know, I'm nit picking at this point.

The Goodies!
Pattern: Pavot by Deer and Doe
Size: 40
Alterations: Welt pockets, bound button holes, wider collar, smaller sleeve cap, lined, drafted hem and cuff facing.


58 comments :

  1. Wow, it looks fantastic! I wasn't sure about the Pavot jacket, but your version has converted me :) That fabric looks awesome, perfect for that style of coat.

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    1. Thank you, Karina! You should try the Pavot jacket. I love it. It's perfect for spring weather, and if you make it with heavier fabric, it's perfect for winter!

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  2. I really have been awaiting a non-dress make from you! Not that I don't like your dresses, but I was SURE you could do so many other awesome things besides cute dresses :) And you could! This jacket is just lovely, and very becoming ;) Well done for all your alterations, and the lining! Great job :)

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    1. Haha! I know what you mean, but dresses are so enticing. I do wear them every day. I've noticed with MMM14 that I only wear dresses. haha! There are days that I don't want to wear a dress, and that made me realize that I need to make things other than dresses. So, you might see, dare I say, a variety of different things other than dresses!

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  3. Love your changes and all all the special details ;o)

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    1. Thank you Colette! I think the details is what makes any outfit. :)

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  4. Best version I seen... Perfection for the current weather. See you soon xx

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    1. That's such a compliment Rachel! Thank you! I can't wait to go to London, and shop for fabric!

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  5. Absolutely stunning! You are so talented, I can't believe you made this in only 3 days!! I really like the fabric, and the buttons are perfect.

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    1. Thanks, Marrie! It's kind of deceiving because I made it during the weekend and I spent all day on it. Only stopping to eat, well sometimes. ;)

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  6. If I made that jacket I would wear it all the time! I would even sleep in it it's so pretty. You must be so happy with it. And that fabric!! Gorgeous. Seriously, amazing. A+.

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    1. Thanks, Kat! I totally think you should make a jacket and wear it all day! ;) I am really happy with my jacket. I find excuses to wear it. I can't wait to wear it during my trip! Eep!

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  7. That's awesome!!! And I LOVE that fabric, what kind of fabric is it? What qualities were you looking for when searching for fabric for this project, as I'm planning a similar jacket soon!

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    1. Thanks, Rachel! The fabric is Alexander Henry. I think it's home decor fabric, a canvas? I wanted a spring time jacket, so the fabric is perfect. I lined the jacket with Bemberg because it's not as warm as silk. I didn't line it with cotton fabric because I don't like the lining to stick to my clothes. For my "winter" jacket, I picked a light weight wool. I want it to be more tailored, so I do have silk organza to interline, hair canvas for more structure, and I do have silk to line the jacket. I kind of want to go all out on it, even though I'll rarely use the "winter" jacket. Can't wait to see your jacket! :)

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  8. Ow wow, it's wonderful Kathy! I love all the changes you made to the pattern, they're exactly the changes I would make too, so it's great to see such a lovely result. Very inspiring! x

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  9. That is just fabulous - you must be so proud. The fabric, the fit, the pockets are all just gorgeous. I am not surprised you're smiling so much in the pictures.

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    1. Thank you, Rachel! I am proud of my jacket. I love it, and wear it every chance I get!

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  10. oh it's beautiful! nice work (and yaay bound buttonholes!)

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    1. Thanks, Jo! Bound buttonholes, were a pain! That's no lie, but I do love the results!

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  11. It's beautiful!!! It fits you perfectly. Great job!

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  12. Gorgeous! I love your version, and the pockets are adorable!

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  13. Your jacket is phenomenal! Your added changes really add to the charm of the jacket.

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  14. So beautiful, Kathy! I love the fabric you used. It's interesting and classic at the same time.

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    1. Thanks, Gail! The fabric is amazing, I love it.

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  15. love, love it!!! and awesome, being brave, lol, to take on all the changes to make something you super love!

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    1. Thanks, Laurel! I had to make all the changes at once because if I didn't, I won't like it. Even though it would look okay, it would still bug me. Ha!

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  16. This is gorgeous! Fabulous job! Have fun on your trip to Europe!

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  17. Oh my goodness, this is beautiful! I've been wanting to branch out from dresses, skirts, and occasional tops as well, and I think I might try pants next, then a jacket for fall. You've inspired me to go for it!

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    1. Thanks, Gina! You totally should go for it! Dresses are really enticing, but when you take a step back, you realize that there are a lot of holes in your wardrobe. So, I'm slowly trying to fill in those holes and gaps with a few dresses in there!

      Ooh, pants! You should try to make those. I think there will be a sense of accomplishment when you finish your pants because of all the fitting you have to do. Best of luck!

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  19. Wowsers! This is absolutely gorgeous! I love the fabrics and your alterations - the lining, pockets, bound buttonholes, sleeve heads... I'm going to save this post because I want to make this coat soon (I'm getting the pattern for my birthday next month) and you have so much great information here.

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  20. Oh my god, this is amazing!!!!!!!!!! And you did the buttonholes--AAAAAAAHHHHHHH! :-) This is such a beautiful jacket, and it makes me want to tackle one or two of the handful of coat/jacket patterns that I have sitting around. You make it all sound and look so easy!

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    1. Thanks! You should tackle it! It's bot that hard, I promise. It's easier to think of the small steps and jacket as a whole. It's much easier that way. I totally think you can do it!

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  21. You've excelled yourself Kathy! This is so blimmin' awesome! Perfect fabric choice and all those details are great. You must be so proud of this make! x

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    1. Thanks Janey! I am really proud and I just want to make more complicated clothing! I know, I'm crazy! Hehe

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  22. Looks fantastic! I love your welt pockets. Well done :)

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  23. You did an amazing job on this jacket! I love the little details like the bound buttonholes, the buttons tha echo the print, and the fun pop of color in the pocket lining. Very inspiring!

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  24. Oh wow, it's so gorgeous! Pavot has been on my "to sew" list for so long. Your version is so lovely - the fabric is amazing.

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    1. Thanks, Tilly! You should make it! I can't wait to see your version when you do come around to it.

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  25. Wow, what a lovely, lovely Pavot!

    I made it myself with my lot of modifications, but I love yours. I so wished I had done bound buttonholes too, and your welted pockets are genius!

    There will definitely be another Pavot for me too, but I can't wait to see your second ; bravo!

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    1. Thank you Carlotta! I love your version! I love the collar! I also love the tabs in the back. I just might have to copy that myself!

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  27. Wow the jacket is gorgeous. I think your choice of fabric really makes it. I have had this pattern for about a year, unsure if it was too girly for me, but your version is great... classy and simple. Thanks for all the alteration tips, will definitely be making a muslin first (arrghh.... i'm usually too lazy)

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  28. WOW Kathy! I missed this fabulous jacket! Beautiful work and well worth 3 days of labor! I have a whole list of jackets I want to make... The Robson, the Minoru and the Spearmint. Haha- I live in Ca and I need lots of jackets! lol..

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  29. Wow, your jacket is beautiful! Perfect fabric.

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  30. What a perfect coat! Love your changes.

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