I finally made a jacket. I wanted to make a jacket to take with me to Europe, so I finally hunkered down and made the Pavot jacket by Deer and Doe. This just whets my appetite to make more. I do have 2 more Pavots planned, and 2 trenches as well! I didn't want to make the jacket, not because of the skill it took to make it, but the time.. A dress, I can make that in a day. A jacket? This took me 3 days, and I don't regret it one bit.
I was scared to tackle this jacket is because of all the alterations I wanted to make. What alterations you ask? Where do I even start? I didn't like the pockets because in the muslin I made, the pockets didn't sit well. I didn't want to get rid of the pockets completely because I realized how important they are in keeping your hands warm in the cold. I added front welt pockets instead of the side seam pockets. These pockets are big and deep, I could fit my wallet and cell phone into one pocket!
Isn't the fabric for the pockets pretty? I wanted a pop of color. Keep an eye out for this fabric on my blog. I promise you it will reappear! The main fabric I bought at Sew-LA. When I bought this fabric, I knew I wanted to make the Pavot jacket. That almost never happens to me, I usually buy a fabric because I like it. Sometimes I have a pattern in mind, but it's never set in stone. Initially, I wanted a navy collar and waist band, but I couldn't find the perfect navy to go with it and I wasn't sure how it would look.
I changed the collar. I made it wider. I traced the largest size for the collar. Since they were all the same width in the back, I added 3/4 inch to the back collar. There is a reason to my madness, I promise! Long story short, I wanted my collar to cover my neck if it's ever windy. Besides, I like how I feel like Sherlock when I have it up! I'm just missing his hat.
I lined this sucker! I had a problem of figuring out which tutorial to use, but ended up using Sewaholic's tutorial because it was easier. Since I wanted my jacket to be lined, I drafted a hem facing and cuff facing. I used bias tape around the facings just because I wanted to and I wanted a pop of color. I also hand sewn the lining to the jacket. I went there!
I cut the collar on a bias for added detail, no matter how small. I also cut the under collar 1/8 inch smaller than the upper collar. I took this from all the tutorials I've read about collars. I also interfaced the collar and the facings even though there isn't any mention of it. I didn't know what buttons to use, but I found one with criss cross lines that mimicked my fabric.
I did make some smaller changes. I made bound button holes rather than regular button holes. Man! I didn't realize how labor intensive bound button holes are and how much precision you need. Mine aren't perfect, and that's okay. Will I try it again? I'm just crazy enough where I'll do it again because it's cleaner. I made the sleeve cap smaller because I didn't like how puffy it was for my muslin. I prefer it this way much more.
When I make this jacket again, because there will be a next time, there are a few changes I'll make. I'll make the welt pockets about an inch smaller because they are wide. I'll make the pockets smaller too, because it's quite deep. The last thing I'll do make the skirt part of the jacket less flared. I know, I'm nit picking at this point.
Pattern: Pavot by Deer and Doe
Alterations: Welt pockets, bound button holes, wider collar, smaller sleeve cap, lined, drafted hem and cuff facing.